Best of Buenos Aires

Lately I've gotten some requests for recommendations on what to do in Buenos Aires. Here is the list. Go forth and enjoy.

THINGS TO DO

BA Free Tours
Both of these are really good, led by a brother and sister who work for tips. They’re both funny, and it’s a cool way to get a little bit of history and sightseeing in.

San Telmo Market
This is on Sundays. Best if you can go when it’s not too hot as it’s all outside.

La Boca / PROA Museum
This is a cute and touristy neighborhood (also reportedly a lot of pickpockets/crime). Good to go for a bit of sightseeing, plus check out the museum which is really cool.

Recoleta Cemetery is kind of cool as is the Hippodromo (racetrack). The MALBA museum is trendy and has a decent gift shop. I prefer the nearby Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes which has more well-known international artists (plus it’s free).

RESTAURANTS

Vineria de Gualterio
If you’re a foodie, this is the place to go. A prix-fixe molecular gastronomy tasting menu.

Cabana Las Lilas
This place gets slammed for being an overpriced tourist trap. But it has the best steak, bar none, in Buenos Aires. Before or after dinner, make sure to spend a little time walking around Puerto Madero.

Morelia
This place serves thin crust pizza cooked on a grill (alla parrilla), I recommend the Calabrese. Also fantastic gnocchi. Good for a casual dinner, cash only.

Primavera Trujillana
This family-run Peruvian restaurant is located in the Belgrano neighborhood, and is the real deal for ceviche. Order pisco sours and ceviche. Come early (8PM) so they don’t sell out of fish (this has happened to me). Cash only.

Don Julio
This is my favorite steakhouse in Palermo Soho. It’s casual, inexpensive and good.

Bar 6
This is a good place to grab lunch in Palermo Soho. I’m partial to the veggie woks.

GENERAL TIPS

• It’s really hard to get small bills (under 100 pesos) so be strategic with the ones you get. Coins are also in short supply.
• Tip 10% at restaurants, always in cash (even if you pay the check by credit card).
• Avoid restaurants with sushi or any kind of Asian food. They are really mediocre compared to Southern California.
• Eat steak any chance you get! My favorite is the lomo, a punto (basically: filet mignon, medium rare).
• For wine, I prefer a Torrontes (white) or Tannat (red). Generally wines called “Reservas” are better. I find Malbecs really hard to drink but the Cabernets are good (they pronounce it “caber-net”, like a fishing net).
• Spanish is pronounced a little differently in Argentina. Double-L and Y sounds are both pronounced kind of like the “zs” in “Zsa Zsa Gabor”. So instead of “poy-yo” (for pollo/chicken), it sounds like “po-jho”. And “Avenida de Mayo” sounds like “Avenida de Ma-jho”. This will be useful with cabs!